If more than 20% of your fence needs repair, or it shows widespread rot or structural failure, replace rather than repair. Wood fences with isolated damage to a few boards or 1-2 leaning posts can be repaired using Simpson Strong-Tie E-Z Mender brackets ($18-20) or sister posts. For localized issues under 20%, repair is almost always more economical.
The decision to repair or replace a fence comes down to the extent of damage and the fence’s remaining lifespan. A few rotted boards are worth fixing; multiple failing posts mean it’s replacement time.
Repair vs Replace: Quick Decision Guide
| Condition | Repair | Replace |
|---|---|---|
| 1-2 broken boards | Yes | |
| Leaning post (1-2 posts) | Yes | |
| Surface rot only | Yes | |
| 30%+ of boards damaged | Yes | |
| Multiple rotted posts | Yes | |
| Fence older than 15-20 years | Yes | |
| Storm damage throughout | Yes | |
| More than 20% needs work | Yes |
Fence Lifespan by Material
| Material | Expected Lifespan |
|---|---|
| Untreated spruce | 4-7 years |
| Pine | 5-12 years |
| Pressure-treated wood | 15-20 years |
| Cedar/Redwood | 15-30 years |
| Vinyl/PVC | 20-30 years |
| Chain link (galvanized) | 15-20 years |
| Aluminum | 20-50 years |
| Wrought iron | 20-50+ years |
Annual Inspection Checklist
Perform this inspection annually and after severe weather:
- Visual walk-around — Look for leaning sections, broken panels
- Post stability test — Gently shake each post; should not move
- Rot test — Use screwdriver to probe wood at ground level; soft/crumbly = rot
- Ground-level check — Dig 4” around post bases to check decay at soil line
- Hardware inspection — Check screws, nails, brackets for rust or looseness
- Gate function — Test for sagging, dragging, loose hinges
Post Repair Method 1: E-Z Mender Brackets
Best for: Rotted posts with good upper structure
Product: Simpson Strong-Tie E-Z Mender (FPBM44E) — $18-20
E-Z Mender brackets let you reinforce a rotted post without digging out concrete or removing the old post. The steel plate drives into the ground and bolts to the existing post.
Installation:
- Clear dirt and debris around post base
- Brace fence in correct position using 2x4s
- Verify post is plumb with level
- Position E-Z Mender against post
- Drive mender plate at least 11 inches into ground alongside post
- Secure to post using (6) #9 x 1½” screws per plate
- Install second mender on opposite side for maximum support
- Remove bracing and test stability
Post Repair Method 2: Sister Post
Best for: Posts without concrete, wobbly with intact upper structure
- Remove stress from fence (detach rails if needed)
- Cut pressure-treated 2x4 or 4x4 to match existing post height
- Drive sister post 2-3 feet into ground parallel to existing post
- Ensure both posts are plumb
- Bolt or lag-screw posts together at minimum 3 points
- Pour concrete footing around sister post
- Allow 24-48 hours cure time
Post Repair Method 3: Adding Concrete
Best for: Posts wobbling without rot
- Dig around loose post to expose base
- Straighten post to plumb; brace with 2x4 stakes
- Add gravel at bottom for drainage
- Pour concrete to 2-3” above soil level
- Slope concrete top away from post (“crowning”) to shed water
- Allow 24-48 hours to cure
Full Post Replacement
When needed: Severely rotted or broken posts
- Brace fence panels on both sides with 2x4s
- Cut nails/screws between rails and post with reciprocating saw
- Dig semicircular hole around concrete footing
- Break concrete with sledgehammer; remove post
- Place 4-6” gravel at hole bottom for drainage
- Set new pressure-treated post (UC4A rated for ground contact)
- Verify plumb and height alignment
- Pour concrete, crown top away from post
- Brace and allow 24-48 hours
- Reattach rails with 3” exterior screws
Board Replacement
- Remove damaged board by backing out screws or prying nails
- Match wood type (cedar to cedar, pressure-treated to pressure-treated)
- Cut replacement to exact size
- Position with consistent spacing
- Use 2” exterior deck screws, 2 per rail contact point
- For cedar: Use stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners—NOT zinc-plated (causes staining)
Cost Comparison
Repair Costs:
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Per board | $8-15 |
| Per rail | $25-50 |
| Per post (DIY materials) | $20-50 |
| Per post (professional) | $150-400 |
Replacement Costs (per linear foot installed):
| Material | Cost/Linear Foot |
|---|---|
| Chain link | $8-40 |
| Wood (basic) | $10-45 |
| Wood (privacy) | $20-50 |
| Vinyl | $30-60 |
| Aluminum | $25-75 |
| Composite | $20-85 |
| Old fence removal | $3-6 |
Average total fence replacement: $2,400-7,500
When to Call a Pro
Call a professional if:
- More than 3-4 posts need replacement
- Fence is leaning significantly throughout
- Concrete footings require excavation equipment
- Working near property lines (may need survey)
- Wrought iron or welded metal repairs
- Permits required for extensive work
- Rocky or sloped terrain
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Not addressing root cause — Fixing boards when posts are rotting wastes money
- Setting posts too shallow — Posts should be buried 1/3 of total length (6’ above = 2’ below)
- Skipping drainage gravel — Posts in concrete without gravel trap moisture
- Using wrong fasteners — Zinc-plated nails in cedar cause rust stains
- Not crowning concrete — Flat-topped concrete pools water against posts
- Ignoring the 20% rule — Multiple repairs on aging fences cost more than replacement
- Not bracing during repairs — Can collapse fence sections
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I replace my fence instead of repairing it?
Replace if more than 20% of the fence needs repair (the industry “20% rule”), multiple posts are rotting, the fence is within 3-5 years of its expected lifespan, or more than 30% of a post or panel is rotten. Individual board replacement and 1-2 leaning posts are worth repairing.
How do I fix a leaning fence post without replacing it?
Use Simpson Strong-Tie E-Z Mender brackets ($18-20)—drive the metal plate 11+ inches into ground alongside the post and secure with screws. For posts without concrete, add a “sister post” bolted parallel and set in new concrete. Both methods avoid digging out the old post.
How long do different fence materials last?
Untreated spruce: 4-7 years. Pine: 5-12 years. Pressure-treated wood: 15-20 years. Cedar/redwood: 15-30 years. Vinyl: 20-30 years. Chain link: 15-20 years. Aluminum and wrought iron: 20-50+ years with maintenance.
Related Guides
- Exterior Maintenance Guide — Complete overview of home exterior care
- Deck Maintenance and Staining — Protect wood structures
- How to Pressure Wash Siding — Clean fencing and other surfaces