Gutter and Drainage Maintenance Guide

Proper drainage is critical for protecting your home’s foundation, basement, and landscaping. Clogged gutters and poor drainage are leading causes of water damage in homes—causing everything from basement flooding to foundation cracks to rotted fascia boards. This guide covers everything you need to know about maintaining your gutters and managing water around your property.

Why Gutters Matter

Understanding what’s at stake motivates proper maintenance.

What Gutters Do

A functioning gutter system:

• Collects rainwater from 1,000+ square feet of roof
• Channels thousands of gallons away from your foundation yearly
• Prevents erosion around your home
• Protects siding from splash-back
• Keeps water out of basements and crawl spaces

What Happens Without Them

Clogged or damaged gutters cause:

• Foundation damage: Water pooling against foundation causes cracks, settling, and basement leaks
• Fascia rot: Overflowing water rots fascia boards
• Siding damage: Water cascading down siding causes staining and rot
• Landscape erosion: Water dumps in concentrated spots, washing away soil and plants
• Ice dams: In cold climates, clogged gutters contribute to ice dam formation
• Basement flooding: The most common cause of wet basements is poor gutter drainage

Gutter Cleaning

Regular cleaning is the most important maintenance task.

When to Clean

Minimum schedule:

• Late spring: After pollen, seeds, and spring debris
• Late fall: After leaves have dropped

Additional cleaning needed if:

• You have many overhanging trees
• You notice overflow during rain
• After major storms
• You see plants growing in gutters

Safety First

Gutter cleaning involves ladders and heights:

• Use a sturdy extension ladder rated for your weight plus tools
• Have someone spot you or know you’re on a ladder
• Never lean the ladder against the gutter (can damage or dislodge it)
• Use a ladder stabilizer that rests against the fascia
• Wear gloves (decomposed debris can be sharp and dirty)
• Wear safety glasses
• Don’t overreach—move the ladder frequently

Cleaning Tools

Essential tools:

• Sturdy ladder with stabilizer
• Work gloves (leather or rubber coated)
• Bucket or bag for debris
• Garden trowel or gutter scoop
• Garden hose with spray nozzle

Helpful additions:

• Gutter cleaning wand (attaches to hose for ground-level cleaning)
• Leaf blower with gutter attachment
• Wet/dry vacuum with extension kit

Cleaning Process

1. Position ladder safely at the starting point
2. Remove large debris by hand or with scoop
3. Work toward downspout to avoid pushing debris into it
4. Check downspouts for clogs (more on this below)
5. Flush with hose starting at the far end from downspout
6. Check for leaks at seams as water flows
7. Verify water flows freely through downspouts

Cleaning Downspouts

Clogged downspouts cause overflow even with clean gutters:

Signs of clogged downspout:

• Water overflows from gutter at downspout connection
• Little or no water exits at bottom during rain
• Water backs up in gutter near downspout

Clearing clogs:

1. Try flushing from top with hose on full blast
2. If that fails, disconnect bottom section of downspout
3. Use plumber’s snake or drain auger from bottom
4. For stubborn clogs, disassemble downspout sections
5. Clean strainers at top and bottom

Gutter Inspection and Repair

While cleaning, inspect for problems.

What to Look For

Gutter condition:

• Rust spots or holes (aluminum won’t rust but can corrode)
• Cracks or splits
• Sagging sections
• Separated seams
• Paint peeling inside (exposes metal to corrosion)

Mounting condition:

• Loose or missing hangers
• Pulling away from fascia
• Improper pitch (water standing after rain)
• Damaged fascia board behind gutter

Downspout condition:

• Secure connections at gutter
• Tight joints between sections
• Proper discharge location
• Strainers in place

Repairing Leaky Seams

Most gutter leaks occur at seams:

For minor leaks:

1. Clean and dry the area thoroughly
2. Apply gutter sealant from inside
3. Smooth with putty knife
4. Allow to cure before rain

For larger seam separations:

1. Clean area thoroughly
2. Apply gutter sealant
3. Pop rivet the seam closed (drill out old rivets if present)
4. Apply more sealant over repair
5. Smooth and allow to cure

Patching Holes

Small holes in aluminum gutters:

1. Clean area and scuff with sandpaper
2. Apply roofing cement over hole
3. Press patch of similar metal into cement
4. Apply more cement over patch
5. Smooth edges

For significant damage, replace the gutter section.

Fixing Sagging Gutters

Gutters should slope toward downspouts, but not sag:

Adding support:

1. Identify sagging sections
2. Install additional gutter hangers every 2 feet
3. Use gutter screws into fascia (not just nails)
4. Adjust hanger height to maintain proper slope

Proper slope: 1/4 inch drop per 10 feet toward downspout

Replacing Hangers

Old spike-and-ferrule hangers often fail:

1. Remove old spike
2. Install screw-in hidden hanger in same hole
3. Or use a gutter hanger screw (longer spike with screw threads)
4. These hold much better than original spikes

Downspout Management

Getting water away from the foundation is crucial.

Extension Options

Basic splash blocks:

• Inexpensive and simple
• Place under downspout outlet
• Directs water slightly away
• Minimum protection—better than nothing

Rigid extensions:

• Attach directly to downspout
• Carry water 4-6 feet from foundation
• Visible and can be a tripping hazard
• May need to move for lawn mowing

Flexible extensions:

• Attach to downspout
• Can curve around obstacles
• Bury partially for cleaner look
• Extend up to 6 feet

Underground drainage:

• Pipe carries water underground
• Discharges far from foundation (or to storm drain)
• Invisible once installed
• Best solution but more complex installation

Installing Underground Drainage

For permanent, invisible water management:

1. Plan the route: Downspout to discharge point, minimum 10 feet from foundation
2. Dig trench: 6-12 inches deep, sloping away from house
3. Line with landscape fabric (optional but helps prevent clogs)
4. Lay 4-inch corrugated drain pipe
5. Connect to downspout with adapter
6. Terminate with pop-up emitter or open drain in low area
7. Backfill trench
8. Install downspout connection above ground

Downspout Accessories

Gutter strainers: Prevent debris from entering downspout Underground cleanouts: Allow rodding if underground pipe clogs Pop-up emitters: Stay closed until water pressure opens them, prevents debris entry Hinged extensions: Fold up for mowing, drop down during rain

Gutter Guards and Covers

Gutter guards can reduce cleaning frequency but have trade-offs.

Types of Gutter Guards

Screen guards:

• Metal or plastic mesh over gutter
• Allow water through, block large debris
• Least expensive
• Still require periodic cleaning
• Fine debris gets through and accumulates

Reverse curve/helmet style:

• Water follows curve into gutter, debris falls off
• More effective than screens
• Expensive
• Can fail in heavy rain (water overshoots)
• Difficult to clean underneath

Micro-mesh:

• Very fine mesh blocks almost all debris
• Most effective at keeping debris out
• Higher cost
• Debris accumulates on top, needs brushing
• Can clog in pollen season or with pine needles

Foam inserts:

• Foam block sits in gutter
• Water flows through, debris stays on top
• Least effective long-term
• Degrades and traps debris
• Not recommended

Brush inserts:

• Bristle-filled cylinder sits in gutter
• Debris sits on top, water flows through
• Debris accumulates and is difficult to clean
• Not highly effective

Gutter Guard Considerations

Pros:

• Reduce cleaning frequency
• Prevent major clogs
• Extend time between maintenance

Cons:

• Don’t eliminate cleaning—debris still accumulates
• Can make cleaning more difficult (must remove guards)
• Higher upfront cost
• Some types fail in heavy rain
• Can void gutter warranty

Best candidates for gutter guards:

• Homes with many trees (especially pine trees)
• Homeowners unable to clean regularly
• Second-story gutters difficult to access

Yard Grading and Surface Drainage

Gutters are only part of the drainage system.

Proper Grading

Ground should slope away from your foundation:

Standard recommendation: 6 inches of drop in the first 10 feet from the foundation

How to check:

1. Drive stakes at foundation and 10 feet out
2. Tie string between them, level
3. Measure from string to ground at each point
4. Ground should be 6 inches higher at foundation

Fixing improper grading:

1. Add topsoil near foundation
2. Grade smoothly to existing level
3. Maintain 6-inch clearance between soil and siding
4. Seed or sod to prevent erosion

Surface Drainage Solutions

For areas where water pools:

Swales:

• Shallow channels that direct water flow
• Can be grass-lined or with river rock
• Guide water around obstacles to drainage area

French drains:

• Gravel-filled trench with perforated pipe
• Collects water and carries it away
• Effective for persistent wet areas

Dry wells:

• Underground pit filled with gravel
• Water percolates slowly into soil
• Good for areas where water can’t drain away

Channel drains:

• Surface drains for driveways and patios
• Collect water and direct to underground pipe
• Prevent water from running toward foundation

Installing a French Drain

For persistently wet areas:

1. Plan the route: From wet area to discharge point or dry well
2. Dig trench: 6-12 inches wide, 18-24 inches deep, sloping slightly
3. Line with landscape fabric: Overlap edges generously
4. Add 2-3 inches of gravel
5. Lay perforated pipe: Holes facing down
6. Cover with gravel: Fill to within 4 inches of surface
7. Fold fabric over gravel
8. Cover with topsoil and seed

Dry Well Installation

When you have nowhere to discharge water:

1. Dig hole: 3-4 feet diameter, 3-4 feet deep
2. Line with landscape fabric
3. Fill with large gravel or a dry well basin
4. Connect drain pipe from gutter or surface drain
5. Cover with fabric and soil
6. Water percolates into surrounding soil

Foundation Drainage

Your foundation needs special protection.

Signs of Foundation Drainage Problems

• Water in basement or crawl space
• Damp basement walls
• Efflorescence (white mineral deposits) on foundation
• Cracks that are wet during rain
• Musty smell in basement

Foundation Drainage Components

Gutters and downspouts: First line of defense

Grading: Keeps surface water away

Foundation waterproofing: Applied to exterior foundation walls

Footing drains (French drains): Installed at foundation footer level

Sump pump: Removes collected water from below floor level

Sump Pump Basics

If you have a sump pump:

Maintenance:

• Test quarterly by pouring water into pit
• Pump should activate and discharge
• Clean debris from pit
• Check that discharge is clear and away from foundation

Backup options:

• Battery backup sump pump
• Water-powered backup pump
• Generator for extended outages

Warning signs:

• Pump runs constantly
• Pump doesn’t run when pit fills
• Unusual noises
• Water not discharging properly

Improving Basement Drainage

If you have basement water issues:

DIY improvements:

• Extend downspouts further from foundation
• Regrade soil away from house
• Install window well covers
• Ensure sump pump is working
• Apply waterproofing paint to interior walls

Professional solutions:

• Exterior foundation waterproofing
• Exterior footing drain installation
• Interior drain tile system
• Crack injection for leaking cracks

Seasonal Gutter Checklist

Spring

• Clean gutters after pollen/seed season
• Check for winter damage (ice damage, loose hangers)
• Test downspouts with hose
• Clear underground drain outlets
• Check grading after freeze/thaw cycles

Summer

• Inspect after storms
• Trim overhanging branches
• Check for bird nests or insect activity
• Verify downspouts still properly positioned

Fall

• Clean gutters after leaves drop (major cleaning)
• Install gutter guards if using seasonal type
• Inspect for damage before winter
• Verify all connections are tight
• Clear underground drains before freeze

Winter (if applicable)

• Watch for ice dams
• Remove heavy snow accumulation from gutters if safe
• Don’t use salt in gutters (causes corrosion)
• Plan repairs for spring

When to Replace Gutters

Consider replacement when:

• Multiple sections need repair
• Gutters are over 20 years old
• Frequent leaks despite repairs
• Significant rust (steel gutters)
• Pulling away from house repeatedly
• Wrong size for your roof area

Gutter Sizing

Standard 5-inch gutters handle most homes, but:

• Large roof areas may need 6-inch gutters
• Heavy rainfall areas benefit from larger gutters
• Downspouts should be sized to match (3x4 or 4-inch round for larger gutters)

Material Options

Aluminum: Most common, lightweight, doesn’t rust, 20+ year lifespan Vinyl: Inexpensive, DIY-friendly, can crack in cold, 10-15 year lifespan Steel: Strong, heavier, can rust, requires painting, 15-20 years Copper: Premium appearance, no maintenance, very expensive, 50+ years

Professional vs. DIY

DIY-Friendly Tasks

• Cleaning gutters (single-story)
• Installing downspout extensions
• Basic repairs (sealant, hangers)
• Installing simple gutter guards
• Surface drainage improvements

Consider Professional Help For

• Two-story gutter cleaning
• Gutter replacement
• Fascia repair
• Underground drainage installation
• Complex grading issues
• Foundation waterproofing

A well-maintained gutter and drainage system is your home’s best defense against water damage. The investment of time cleaning and maintaining gutters pays off many times over in prevented repairs. Water in the wrong places is one of the most destructive forces a home can face—and it’s one of the most preventable problems with proper drainage management.